Hampstead Heath is a treasured part of London. Since C.S. Lewis lived nearby, it is rumoured that the area provided the inspiration behind Narnia. Another fun fact is that Hampstead has more millionaires than any other area of Britain. Also, if you use Hampstead Station for this route, did you know the station is the deepest station in the Underground at 52 metres, with the deepest underground shaft at 55 metres and a spiral emergency staircase of 300 steps?
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Route overview
You may notice what looks like small manhole covers along the sides of the street. These are Coal Hole Covers that allowed coal men to drop coal directly into coal cellars within the households. With the introduction of central heating and the Clean Air Act, these coal hole covers were no longer needed and used.
Coal Hole Covers. Credit: The Spectator
Church Row is lined with numerous properties listed on the National Heritage List for England, with Grade I and Grade II listed houses and railings. Some houses have been featured in films such as Sapphire, Alias John Preston, Cemetery Junction, Hampstead, and scenes in the 2019 BBC Miniseries A Christmas Carol. Some significant residents include the scientist Henry Cavendish, writer H.G. Wells, who was frequently visited by George Bernard Shaw, comedian Peter Cook, who was visited by John and Cynthia Lennon and Paul McCartney.
Houses along Church Row. Credit: Goldschmidt and Howland
From Church Row, turn left onto Heath Street, then right down Oriel Place. To your left you’ll see the famous tree with locals enjoying the quiet under it. Turn right onto Hampstead High Street.
Part 1 of the London Hampstead Walking Tour
Hampstead High Street is an understated little street with even cuter side streets, such as Perrin’s Court, Flask Walk, and Oriel Place. Along High Street, you will find some independent stores and some franchises such as Waterstones. These stores offer a variety of food, toys, books, charity shops, and some high-end brands.
Hampstead High Street. Credit: Heathgate
Hampstead High Street becomes Pilgrim’s Place. Thereafter, turn left onto Downshire Hill. Turn right onto Keats Grove to find Keats House on your right. Leaving the house, turn right, then left on South End Road, following the pathway towards and along the pond. Follow the path with the pond to your right. On your left, you will find the car park for the Affordable Art Fair.
Part 2 of the London Hampstead Walking Tour
As the name suggests, this property was lived in by John Keats from 1818 until he left for Rome in 1820. Perhaps his most famous pieces, Ode to a Nightingale and La Belle Dame Sans Merci, were written here. In this house, as part of the Keatsiania, are the letters written by Fanny Brawne to Fanny Keats, John Keats’ sister. These letters took a total of 110 years to return to where many were originally written in Hampstead. They show how endearing Fanny Brawne, John Keats’ fiancee, was and give a peak into the lives of the women who lived in this house, altering the conversations around the lives and motivations of women. To find out more or attend any of the house’s events, see the website here.
Keats House. Credit: Living London History
Houses on Downshire Hill. Credit: Stephen Levrant Heritage Architecture
In the springtime, you can visit the Affordable Art Fair. As the name suggests, you will find affordable art pieces from £50 to thousands of pounds. You can view the opening times here and sign up for any updates for the next exhibitions.
Affordable Art Fair- Hampstead Attitude
After passing the Affordable Art Fair, cross the pond’s bridge on your right and walk straight towards the Parliament Hill viewpoint. Retrace your steps over the bridge and turn right to return to the route. Continue straight, passing the Viaduct Bridge on your right. At the end of this pathway, turn left, follow the curve, then turn left again towards the main road and turn left onto Spaniards Road.
Part 3 of the London Hampstead Walking Tour
The Parliament Hill viewpoint offers one of the best views of the London skyline and is legally protected, which means it may never be obstructed. It was still private land until roughly the 1950s and is now thoroughly enjoyed by locals and tourists having a picnic. It is said that Guy Fawkes and his fellow conspirators were to watch the burning of the Palace of Westminster from this viewpoint.
View from Parliament Hill. Credit: Charleypatton1192 on Reddit
At the roundabout, turn right onto North End Way. Turn left onto Inverforth Close towards the Hampstead Hill Garden and Pergola. To return to the route, retrace your steps back onto North End Way and turn right. Just before the roundabout, see Jack Straw’s Castle on your right. At the roundabout, continue straight.
Part 4 of the London Hampstead Walking Tour
Arguably Hampstead’s “best-kept secret,” Hill Garden and Pergola is a beautiful oasis that was once the private garden of a now demolished manor house. You can view the opening days and times here. You won’t regret having a roam around here, especially in the spring and summer, when wisteria, roses and other flowers are in full bloom. Dating back to 1904, the Pergola and vast expanse of a garden was the brainchild of Lord Leverhulme with the intention of it being the gathering spot for extravagant Edwardian garden parties as well as a place of relaxation for his friends and family in summer evenings. Sadly, after his death, the pergola started falling into disrepair, and today doesn’t quite reflect its previous grandeur. Nevertheless, it has a unique character, and one can imagine what it once was.
Hampstead Hill Garden and Pergola. Credit: London, The Unfinished City
Jack Straw’s Castle is a Grade II-listed building and was once a pub. The unusual name is after Jack Straw, the rebel leader of the Peasant’s Revolt in the late 1300s. It is said he took refuge at this site before he was arrested and executed. Charles Dickens frequented this pub, with his meal of choice being a red-hot chop and, of course, a glass of quality wine. Sadly, the building was damaged during The Blitz of WWII and rebuilt in 1964. Closed as a pub in 2002, it is now a block of luxury apartments.
Jack Straw’s Castle. Credit: Camden New Journal
Part 5 of the London Hampstead Walking Tour
At the three-way crossing, turn left onto Windmill Hill. At the first curve of the road, you’ll find the Fenton House on your left. Continue onto Frognal Rise, then turn left onto Holly Mount to find Holly Bush Pub. Following the curve of Holly Mount, turn left and go up the Holly Bush Steps to find Golden Yard on your right.
Part 6 of the London Hampstead Walking Tour
The Fenton House and Garden is a 17th-century treasure complete with a 300-year-old orchard, kitchen garden, rose garden, terraces, and lawns within its garden walls. Lady Binning, who purchased the house in 1936, thoughtfully and delicately decorated its interior with some of the finest porcelain, Georgian Furniture, 17th-century needlework, and early 20th-century drawings and paintings. The attic-floor balcony offers a great panoramic view of the city. In the late 1600s, the residents of Fenton could have watched St Paul’s Cathedral be constructed. Today, you can see it in the mix of high rises in the city. To purchase tickets to see the house and find out its opening times, visit the website here.
Fenton House and Garden. Credit: National Trust
The Holly Bush steps lead to The Holly Bush pub. This much-loved pub has undergone very few changes as a pub since the 18th century. One small change is its signage, which was once a full holly bush tree and is now a sprig of holly. In the ’60s, it became the place to be when the Rolling Stones made it their hangout spot, which made sense since Mick Jagger and Keith Richard lived on Holly Hill. Interestingly, before Hampstead grew into the affluent area it is today, it was once a hub for laundry businesses due to its many springs for fresh water and lots of wind atop the hill. At the time it was known then as “Cloth Hill.” See their opening times here.
The Holly Bush. Credit: The Holly Bush website
Golden Yard. Credit: The September Chronicles
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Resources:
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Information gathered from various sources including Wikipedia.