Edinburgh‘s closes are narrow alleyways that wind through the city’s historic streets and offer a glimpse into its past, dating back centuries. These almost 100 ancient passages in the Old Town were once bustling with activity, serving as vital arteries of commerce and daily life in medieval Edinburgh. Similarly, the city’s kirkyards, such as Greyfriars Kirkyard, are steeped in history, housing centuries-old tombstones and offering a haunting yet fascinating glimpse into Edinburgh’s rich and diverse heritage. You can start this linear route at either end and easily reach them by bus, tram, or foot.
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Route overview
Starting at the Museum of Edinburgh, walk up the High Street towards the castle. The closes will be on either side of you.
Part 1 of the 4km Edinburgh’s Closes and Kirkyards Walk
As you make your way through the Museum of Edinburgh, exiting at the back, you will see a beautiful stone and monument garden. Here, you will find remnants from no-longer-existing buildings, headstones showing how the departed were memorialised centuries ago, and a glimpse of some family crests and coats of arms. Museum entry is free, and the garden is accessed from the second floor through the double glass doors.
Monuments Garden. Credit: Edinburgh Museums
Chessel’s Court has mansion houses built in 1748 and restored in the 1960s. It is said that Robert Louis Stevenson’s “Jekyll and Hyde” was inspired by a burglary here committed by William Brodie, a cabinet maker. By day, Brodie had a lavish social life with the wealthy of Edinburgh, and by night, he led a group of burglars. Brodie’s last burglary took place here, and he was finally caught. Along the wall of the court, you will see a stunningly well-kept wall of ivy, one shaped like a heart.
Chessel’s Court ivy heart wall. Credit: Be Right Back
If you look atop the arch of Paisley Close, you can see a stone carving of a young boy with the inscription “Heave Awa Chaps, I’m No Dead Yet!” The story goes that in the 19th century, the area’s inhabitants grew exponentially, thus increasing the demand for housing. During this time, housing guidelines and building codes weren’t commonplace. Naturally, this meant many of the sometimes 14-storey buildings crumbled, collapsed, and went up in flames.
This was the case at Paisley Close, where one night in 1861, a 250-year-old seven-storey building collapsed, killing 35 of the 77 tenants. However, 12-year-old Joseph McIvor somehow survived and happily shouted “Heave Awa Chaps, I’m No Dead Yet!” to the rescue team. Not long after, building codes were established, and houses were demolished and rebuilt.
Paisley Close. Credit: My Veggie Travels
Advocate’s Close, named after Sir James Stewart, Lord Advocate of Scotland, provides a great view of the Scott Monument in the New Town and the tops of buildings in the Old Town. Once a fashionable address for the wealthy, this close and the rest of Old Town became a bit of a slum after the gentry moved to the New Town. Because of the high density of tenants and lack of proper sewage, waste was often thrown out of the window and ran down the slope of the streets. Fortunately, that is no longer the case.
View from Advocate’s Close. Credit: Ashley
Lady Stair’s Close holds Lady Stair’s House, built in 1622. Originally, it was named after the widow of the first owner, Lady Grey. She was the mother of the Scots Worthy Andrew Grey, whose novels were widely recognised despite passing away at a young age. The house’s current name is from Elizabeth Dundas, Lady Stair, who purchased it in 1719. She is the widow of John Dalrymple, the first Earl of Stair. Also within this close is Makar’s Court, with engraved stones honouring the very best figures of Scottish literature, as well as the Writer’s Museum, which is well worth a visit.
Lady Stair’s Close. Credit: Eye on Edinburgh
From Lady Stair’s Close, turn right down George V Bridge, just in front of St. Giles’ Cathedral. Turn right onto the road that bends sharply to the right at the National Museum of Scotland. Greyfriars Kirkyard will be right in front of you.
Part 2 of the 4km Edinburgh’s Closes and Kirkyards Walk
Greyfriars Kirkyard is most well-known for some of its headstones, being the inspiration behind certain characters in the Harry Potter series, such as Thomas Riddle, Mad-Eye Moodie, and Professor McGonagall. Additionally, it has some well-preserved examples of mortsafes meant to keep corpses safe from grave robbers and mausoleums commemorating wealthy families and individuals. Within the church itself is a magnificent 3 400-pipe organ as well as an original copy of the National Covenant.
The National Covenant was a declaration of rights: the freedom for common people to follow their consciences in questions of faith and conduct. It encouraged people to read the scriptures for themselves and spread the notion that no one has special access to or understanding of the divine. You can attend and book tickets for their events here.
Greyfriars Kirk. Credit: Greyfriars Kirk
Leave Greyfriars, where you entered, and turn left along Candlemaker Row. Then turn left onto Cowgatehead, which becomes Grassmarket. There are some lovely restaurants, pubs, and cafes here if you’d like to grab a bite to eat. Turn right onto King’s Stables Road, towards the castle, and follow the curve of the road.
Part 3 of the 4km Edinburgh’s Closes and Kirkyards Walk
Just before the tunnel, take the steps up onto Johnston Terrace, and turn left on the road that becomes Castle Terrace. Turn right onto Grindley Street and go around the Usher Hall, turning right onto Lothian Road. Continue over the intersection. Just after the watchtower on your right, you will see the entrance to St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard.
Part 4 of the 4km Edinburgh’s Closes and Kirkyards Walk
The current building of St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard was built between 1892 and 1894. Due to its position at the foot of Castle Rock, it was destroyed and damaged at least four times from the 14th to the 17th century. Within the kirkyard, you’ll see a fantastic view of the side of the castle.
St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard. Credit: Hey Explorer
Exit the kirkyard where you entered and continue on Lothian Road towards Princes Street. At the end of Lothian Road, turn left onto Shandwick Place. After about 800 metres, turn right onto Palmerston Place, where you will see St. Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral on your right.
Part 5 of the 4km Edinburgh’s Closes and Kirkyards Walk
Although St. Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral has a long history and much of its architecture shows this, something a bit more modern is housed here. From Bishop’s Walk on the south side of St. Mary’s, you can see the beautiful stained glass window reworked into modern art by Eduardo Paolozzi. On a sunny day, the window projects a stunning design on the walls and floor of the cathedral.
Paolozzi Window at St. Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral. Credit: Art and Christianity
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If you enjoyed this route, see our 4.8km Calton Hill and Hidden Gems walk.
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Information gathered from various sources, including Wikipedia.